Urupukapuka Island | Northland

A Hidden Battlefield, A Hiker’s Escape

When we boarded the ferry at Paihia and set sail across the calm waters of the Bay of Islands, we knew we were stepping into a landscape of beauty. What we didn’t expect was just how deeply the whenua of Urupukapuka would speak — not just to our love of hiking and wild places, but to our sense of history, of legacy, of what it means to walk where others once fought for their home.

This wasn’t just another hike. It was a journey across time, and one of the most powerful overnight adventures we’ve experienced so far.

Camping in Urupukapuka Bay

We landed at Otehei Bay and shouldered our packs for the short walk to our campsite in Urupukapuka Bay. It’s a sheltered curve of sand that looks like it’s been carved just for rest and reflection. That first evening, as we pitched our tent and watched the sun melt behind the island hills, the sense of solitude hit us. No cars. No hum of traffic. Just us, the pōhutukawa trees, and the whispers of history on the wind.

The island is surprisingly big when you’re on foot — over 200 hectares of hills, bush, pasture and coastline — but it never loses its intimacy. Everything feels close, yet timeless.

The Forgotten Fortress Above Entico Bay

The next morning, we set off early along the ridgelines towards a site that barely features on tourist brochures: the remains of a pā overlooking Entico Bay.

This was the part of the trip I was most drawn to — the chance to visit a place where warriors once stood. Few people know that Urupukapuka was the site of fierce resistance during the Musket Wars. The island’s strategic location meant it was fortified with pā, some of which were attacked or abandoned as gunpowder warfare reshaped tribal power.

Ngāpuhi chief Te Pahi once lived here, and later, the descendants of Te Rarawa and Ngāti Kahu established pā across the ridges. In 1839, when conflict broke out between northern iwi and Ngāti Pāoa of Hauraki, this very ridge may have been a final defence line. Walking that path — with Entico Bay below us, rugged and remote — was haunting. You could almost see the warriors keeping watch, the sea shimmering behind them.

It reminded me that even the most serene landscapes in Aotearoa have scars. Some are just buried deeper than others.

The Return to Camp, and a Swim to Remember

After exploring the historic pā site and soaking in sweeping views of the bay, we made our way back toward Urupukapuka Bay. There’s something magical about returning to camp on foot — tired but filled with stories, aware that the land itself has changed you.

The next morning, we wandered to Otehei Bay for a swim before the ferry arrived. The water was crystal clear and cool, with not a ripple out of place. It was the perfect farewell.

A Place That Stays With You

Urupukapuka Island isn’t just a paradise. It’s a portal — a living, breathing record of survival and change. It’s also wildly underrated. Most visitors don’t venture far from the café and swimming spots, but if you push out a little further, and walk with open eyes, you’ll find ancient footpaths beneath your boots and echoes of a time long gone.

We left with full hearts, tired legs, and a sense that we’d been part of something much larger than ourselves.

🧭 Urupukapuka Island Adventure Summary:

• Location: Bay of Islands, Northland, NZ

• Track Length: Multiple loop options from 30 mins to 4 hours; we walked ~10km return from Otehei Bay to Entico Bay and back

• Track Type: Well-formed DOC trails with signage, exposed ridge walks, and coastal descents

• Overnight: Camped at Urupukapuka Bay campsite (bookable via DOC)

• Difficulty: Easy to moderate — short steep sections but overall manageable

• Highlights:

  • Historic pā site above Entico Bay

  • Remote beach coves and scenic lookouts

  • Swimming at Otehei Bay

  • Epic coastal sunrise and stargazing at camp

• Tips:

  • Bring plenty of water, there are taps but you'll want to boil or filter the water

  • Cell coverage is limited – download maps offline

  • Respect the whenua: these are wāhi tapu, sacred sites
    

📥 Planning your trip? We’re working on a downloadable PDF guide to help you plan your Urupukapuka adventure — including maps, gear list, and historical notes. Stay tuned or sign up to our newsletter to be notified when it drops!